Revel in Ravello

The Amalfi Coast, one of Italy’s most precious jewels, sparkles with a brilliant sapphire in the brilliant golden sun, the mere sight of which is enough to cast a spell, fascinate or enslave even the most jaded onlooker. Legend has it that during the second temptation of Christ, Satan showed Jesus this same landscape as a representation of the beauty of all the kingdoms of the Earth that he was about to lose in death. One look at Ravello and I knew it wasn’t Jesus Christ, because he would choose this scenario over anything just about any day of the week.

Ravello is one of the 5 fabulous main towns that make up this stretch of coastline, as well as Scala, Positano, Atrani and Amalfi, all connected by a precariously beautiful stretch of road that offers some of the most stunning views in the area. The Amalfi Coast is not only appreciated for its fabulous beaches, historical beauty, resplendent panoramas, musical events and vibrant nightlife; it’s also a convenient home base for visits to Naples, Sorrento, Pompeii, Capri, etc. Although it is definitely becoming more of a tourist hotspot as the years go by, you can still save money and experience a little more local flavor in these smaller towns than perhaps staying in the larger cities. A clean breeze from the sea didn’t hurt anyone either.

Here in Ravello I found just the right amount of luxury and service combined with the colorful thread of local history known as Hotel Palumbo. Known as Palazzo Confalone in the 12th century, fragments remain of all that have passed through today to add flavor and an eclectic array of personal touches to the hotel. With just 21 rooms, the service is kept simple, personal, and at the top of its class. Each room features antiques furnished by the Vuilleumier family and each room reflects a different style to satisfy every taste and inspire every imagination. A true masterpiece resides in the dining room of the 17th-century restaurant, a painting of Saint John the Baptist executed by one of Caravaggio’s students.

The soul of this hotel, and perhaps the soul of most places in Italy, can be experienced through the sensory delights of its food and wine. Episcope Cantina, Palumbo’s winery has served nature’s finest since 1860, providing the perfect backdrop and atmosphere for travellers, celebrities, socialites and artists.

And the food and drink don’t just end at the hotel’s bar and restaurant. Due to its prime location, Ravello offers only the freshest fresh seafood dishes, inviting fish lovers to dive right in. Backing that up with mostly locally grown produce is a delicious recipe that just can’t be passed up. And the hotel staff were more than happy to offer some great recommendations.

As if the gardens of Villa Cimbrone weren’t alluring enough in and of themselves, Il Flauto di Pan is a great way to relax, recharge and refresh with some lovingly grown local ingredients. In fact, much of the organic greenery is grown right here, in the restaurant’s own garden.

The Belvedere restaurant at Hotel Caruso is a much more formal option, but definitely worth a try or 3. With its beautiful historic building and spectacular sea views, one simply couldn’t ask for a better dining experience in Amalfi, whether for lunch or dinner. Seafood lover I ate the spaghetti (apparently handmade) with mussels and caciocavallo; an absolute delight! For something a little above average and a higher level of class, this really is a divine choice.

But my most wonderful experience was booked by the caring concierges at my own hotel, and it was so wonderful because it was rewarding. I always like to take something home with me, something to think about or memories to savor, and Mamma Agata’s cooking class was exactly what I was looking for. A charming woman who has been cooking since she was 13, Mamma Agata has wowed everyone from Elisabeth Taylor to Humphrey Boghart to Jackie O. herself with her culinary magic, and today she offers half-day classes for just €185 per person, including lunch and wine. While her husband grows many of his essential ingredients in the family garden and makes the limoncello by hand, her daughter handles the translation, all working together in harmony to keep these treasured traditions alive.

For first-timers like me and most visitors, Mamma Agata keeps it simple, sticking to Italian staples like spaghetti and tomato sauce, and chicken marinated in lemons and herbs. Later, they enjoy their creations together on her deck, simultaneously feasting on authentic Italian delicacies and one of the most impressive views in the Mediterranean. And no meal is complete without her husband’s limoncello. For other prices, she can also organize dinner on her terrace, which is served at sunset, and although I did not experience it, I am sure it is the perfect romantic evening.

Whether you revel in Ravello for the cuisine, the rich history, the natural air, the lively atmosphere or the brilliant views, this little gem in Amalfi caters to absolutely every taste and the Palumbo Hotel is the ideal base for such an adventure.